One can say that Monsieur Wang has now been at Balenciaga long enough to have settled, to have found his feet and to be deep in his best work yet.
There is now doubting that his latest Pre-Fall 2014 collection exudes the confidence of a long standing creative director, yet we can’t ignore its slightly over-thought and disjointed ways. This isn’t to say that there aren’t some outstanding looks though.
Alexander Wang described this collection as “techno couture”, which would explain the pixelated looking printed sweater and bursts of waterproof zips. It was quite futuristic in every sense, even down to the linear piping and crazy curved shoulder pads. As futuristic as it was, its tailored pant suits had a very Gattaca feel to them.
It’s sporty and digital ways made even the shoulder pads look like they had some underlining aerodynamic benefits. Yes, dear Alexander is now designer turned inventor.
There were much added hardware and toggles which alluded to snowboarding references, which was then met with the strict tailoring and shapes of the more solemn, bonded wool pieces. Even the footwear resembled boots fit for snowy, -10 terrains with their laces and fur coverings.
Once again to his credit Wang has attempted to harness and apply the old school voluminous silhouettes of Christòbal Balenciaga, yet at times it doesn’t feel very natural. The last couple of looks flaunted curved, circular backs, whilst cocoon like shapes featured in plenty of the collection.
And lets not forget that long sleeve silk column gown. Pure genius.
The lookbook featured models Lexi Boling, Kasia Jujeczka, Zuzu and Anna Ewers.
with love.
THE AFFAIR 