ACNE Goes Out To Sea

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The show itself opened with a rendition of “Till Havs [Out To Sea]”, and with that the cruise ship which was the ACNE Spring 2014 collection set sail…or was it more of a fishing boat.

Designer Jonny Johansson morphed nautical references with ACNE’s infamously cool ways, in some very ‘next level sailor boy’ style dressing. Navy matchstick thin horizontal strips lined beige pants and blazer’s, alongside drawstring-hemmed denim tunic dresses. Subtle sea-faring touches could also be spotted within the silver anchors that dotted a navy pantsuit, but it’s the mirage of the good ol’ navy and white combo that we can’t get over.

After all, ACNE’s trip to the seaside is rather fitting considering the geographical position of Sweden, no?

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Le Smoking

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It seems that from Dior to Phoebe Philo’s Celine and even the new age Balenciaga, designers have been following suit (pun most definitely intened), with their take on the infamous ‘Le Smoking’ tux.

The ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo suit came about in 1966, crafted by Yves Saint Laurent of course. Introduced at the peak of the womens movement, the liberating suit took off.  Sharp, strong and just austere enough; the suit was described by actress and muse Catherine Deneuve as being “virile and feminine at the same time.”

So this coming season we have masculine tailoring.

Tuxedo jackets that are worn on bare chests, donned as dresses, cropped and fixed at the waist. Take your pick. 

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Balenciaga Spring 2014

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As fashion week picks up and moves on, we still can’t get a certain Alexander Wang masterpiece out of our minds.

The pure euphoria of the Spring 2014 Balenciaga show was one of a real rare kind. There was so much to drool over and admire, it was the kind of show which we could not fault. And of course, a show of impeccable pieces that we know Monsieur Wang for all too well.

“The idea was to start strong and austere, and let that unravel,” spoke Wang, and indeed it unraveled just enough for us to be treated to glimpses of Wang’s cool-edge. A big thank-you must also be extended for the Balenciaga set design team for that rearview mirror, for the full 360 degree experience.a_4x-vertical-4

Historically speaking, Balenciaga has always been body defined, akin with sculpted torsos. Body defined with a hint of sport-influences, so Wang was destined to thrive at the house.  Recognisable by its infamous cocoon shapes, Wang gave this structured shape a softness with pale pinks, cream, white and soft blues.

Then he added pattern. And boy did it work. Swirling floral motifs were transferred from structured tops to tailored butterfly shorts. Which brings us to the alarming amount of matching separates in the collection.

So, there was manipulated leather, which was embroidered here and there and cut to absolute perfection. There was a dose of modesty and alluring sophistication in both the silk cape-back tops and caped jackets. Not to mention the amazing shoes and wrap-around brace like neck hardware.

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In “want[ing] to bring [an] ease into the DNA and codes of the house that I’m working with,” Wang succeeded beyond even this, and we feel that even Cristóbal Balenciaga would agree.

The Balenciaga woman has never looked so feminine, cool and strong.

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Jil Sander Spring 2014

a_4x-vertical-25Clean, sharp and pure; boy does Jil Sander know how to cut clothing.

Her architectural cuts and constraint was a major influence in the ’90’s, and its a pleasure to have her back at the helm of her label after her hiatus (don’t worry, we love you too Raf).a_4x-vertical-34

The “modern woman” (Jil Sander), who wears Sander’s A-line skirts, cropped jackets and culottes is also one intrigued with slightly masculine tailoring. There was a killer deep neckline which was slashed at the waist (as pictured above), which was quite a standout for us.

The collection was to be the “powerful beauty of random assemblage”, and it was. Wavering from Sander’s strenuously solo-idea focused collections of the past, she allowed herself to delve here and there into ideas, but everything was beautiful of course.

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Prada Spring 2014

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“I’m fixated with the idea of women of strength. There is a necessity to be strong, visible, fighters, and this is an encouragement to be out there and to do something.”

“It’s absurd, against the rules; it’s a happy collection. You need to be fighting. It’s about a debate about women; it’s a political discourse: ‘I’m allowed to do whatever I want to do with clothes.’ If they see you, they listen.”

Miuccia Prada (to WWD after the show)

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Calvin Klein Spring 2014

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Calvin Klein‘s women’s creative director Francisco Costa has had much success at the helm of the brand, with this Spring 2014 collection marking his very exciting tenth anniversary!

Much of the collection was what we have come to expect from Costa’s work for Calvin Klein- monochromatic with an edge of reduced sportswear.

Deconstruction and reconstruction were on the agenda, in a harmonious balance of quite and strong.

Garments were adhered with coloured fringing, and there were pieces completely made up of emerald, red, white and  green handwoven cotton tweed. We then witnessed flashes of pink as Costa allowed himself to experiment with new ideas, pushing the envelope even further.

Unfinished skirt-hems were matched with translucent organza pieces an knits which allowed the haphazardness of the finishing to be given a little lightness. Dropped-waist fringe covered lengthy dresses in both white and black finished the show consecutively, displaying the excellent construction and restraint Francisco Costa has become renowned for.

Francisco Costa you have done us proud once again. 

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Helmut Lang Spring 2014

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The most lust-worthy looks of the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection.

a. Firstly, we have a perfect sleeveless jersey dress which just skims the knee and is made a little interesting with cut-outs placed at the hips.

b. Hot pink, fuchsia, call it what you must, but this layered, partly-sheer slip dress is gorgeous (coming from those who always shy from colour).

c. Easily one of the best individual pieces of the collection, is this sheer white, rolled-sleeve crepe dress which ticks all the boxes for Spring.

d. Jersey tulip-style skirts have become quite the cult Helmut Lang piece. Paired with a monochromatic waterfall vest which opens showing glimpses of a stark white inner, it makes a great look.

e. Long live the leather mini. That is all we can say when it comes to this look. Not to mention that the black top synched in at the waist gives a very new and interesting silhouette.

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Proenza Schouler Spring 2014

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It’s hard to believe that New York Fashion Week has already been and gone, with the fashion circus having picked up and flocked to London. New York is always one of the most exciting fashion weeks, kicking off the entire season with only the coolest of designers.

The dynamic duo of Lazaro & Jack of Proenza Schouler were no exception.

It’s nice when fashion collection’s make sense. And the Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 collection did just that. It was a logical, and natural development from their last pre-fall collection, if you can recall the look book’s lengthy pleated skirts, bib-like tops and linear monochromatic print.

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In the glorious palette of sun drenched buttercup, cream, stark white and black the designers added sparks of deep red, navy and gold hues. Working to disrupt the serenity just enough, they gave the edge the we have come to know the Proenza Schouler women by.

Although, it for a Spring/Summer collection, the intensity of accordion pleated shin-skimming skirts and coats tended to create a more Fall-transitioning-to-Spring kind of vibe.

The silhouettes were lengthening- to say the least. Cotton-crepe culottes were layered with contrasting overcoats and structured, plunging necklines were featured. While coats were fixed with these necklines and often nothing underneath, many of the jumpers were fitted with mod circular necks. A short black jacket, alongside a longer coat of a similar aesthetic was fixed with golden hardware and contrasting squared off lapel.

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Measured though many of the looks were and equally as constrained in their movement, the looks of Proenza Schouler looked very much organic. There was an abundance of long-sleeved pieces, providing the collection with a chic, proper feel. Not to mention the warmth.

As for prints, a select few looks sported white paint like streaking on black fabric, where others were infused with a crazy linear black and white print.GENERIC-TEMPLATE-3

And how about the gorgeous footwear of the collection!  The wooden heel just screams homage to the McQueen armadillo heel, as well as Scandinavian design.

GENERIC-TEMPLATE-4It was the artful details of the collection which truly took it to the next level.

Contrary to their previous collection, this time the pleated skirts were treated to metallic strips of silver and gold lame. The pleated skirt and cropped top combination was a definite highlight of their collection. The presentation itself ending with a finale of with knitted silk long-sleeve dress variations which sat snug on the models figures.

After all, you can never have enough crop tops and gold lame.

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Alexander Wang Spring 2014

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Alexander Wang is a lover of the nineties, and has once again re-lived his glory days within the Spring 2014 collection for his namesake label. Although there were some very distinct more polished Balenciaga like influences.

The minimalist combo of black-and-white, gritty street edge and utter coolness of the era was all championed. Not to mention that the Wang girls walked to a fitting soundtrach of Aaliyah and Pharoahe Monch’s “Simon Says (Get the Fuck Up).”

As a confessed ode to the “blatant Advertising” (Alexander Wang) of the nineties, the designer made sure to laser-cut his own name into some of the collection’s leathers, alongside other pieces. The label’s ALEXANDER WANG logo formed a sort of reoccurring print for the collection, even morphed into houndstooth-esque prints. Let’s talk fabric development, because the mini dresses constructed out of the Alexander Wang lettering was genius.

Oh the wit.

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And then we have the more obvious logo of the “Parental Advisory” sheer sweatshirt, which we can all expect to see hitting the viral world hard (with copies soon to be donned by every Cara Delevigne woreshipping teen near you).

Although, it was the scarcely buttoned button-down shirts which really drew our attention. Both in the crisp white and striped blue, they were definite highlights for us. There was also contrast stitching on denim-like jackets, pleated skirts, cropped button-downs leather bermuda’s and lots of leg on show.

Take a look for yourself.

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