Balenciaga Resort 2015

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Truth be told, I liked this collection a lot more than I thought I would. There was a lot of nodding, ‘oohing’ and subsequent ‘aahhing’ going on as I browsed Alexander Wang’s Resort 2015 Collection for the almighty house of Balenciaga.

Firstly, there was enough tough outerwear that makes my soul sing. Wang also blended apparent maritime influences so well with dollops of French chic that well… one would hardly compare the collection to any blue and white stripe clad navy. The tones of navy and black worked wonders, paired with muted tones and stark whites. Wang’s genius was again seen in the black leather pieces which were perfectly tailored and turned up at the corners to reveal a snippet of deep blue.

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The black netting which imprinted onto jacket and skirt combo was mighty impressive, matching the bags made entirely out of netting. If we’re talking influence’s, there is no doubt that those black boots were taken from Wang’s nautical reference- yet somehow they look incredibly chic and edgy.

I can’t help but draw comparisons with Wang’s asymmetric cut to that of Raf’s for Dior (Resort 2014) Collection, as well as those strapless numbers. None the less, the asymmetric cuts of this Balenciaga collection were dream-like, working heavenly with their trailing hems and undisputed sophistication. They brought a sort of fluidity and airy softness to the tough, sailor ensembles. This may sound strange, but I have found this collection relatively easier to digest in comparison to some of Wang’s work in the past. Most likely due to it residing more in my comfort zone with the plethora of leather, black and neutrals.

How delightful.

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Click through to view more of the collection,

with love.

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Balenciaga Fall 2014

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There was a lot going on in Alexander Wang‘s most recent Fall 2014 collection for Balenciaga, yet we have condensed it out to a couple of looks which left us drooling.

As purists at heart, here is our quite biased edit of the collection which is naturally devoid of any colour (yes, there is no sign of those canary yellow toggle coats here…).

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The dominatrix style knee-high leather boots are key standouts in our edit, followed by the gorgeous grey cocoon shaped ribbed knits. Knitwear was a key element with some being embellished with shard like spikes, placed in a gradual effect as to form a dense covering near the collar.

Wang also utilised a large amount of felted black wool in his collection, working it into asymmetric hems and coats of all sorts. The looks were piled to perfection, with slim ever so leg elongating black pants being topped with layers upon layers.

With three seasons up his sleeve at the house, and much to show for it Wang has done us proud and will hopefully continue to do so.

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with love, Natalie.

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Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2014

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We have sat back and watched Raf Simons excel in maintaining the core DNA of Christian Dior. This is not to say that his own perspective and flair hasn’t been injected, alongside those bar-jakets and tulip like skirts of course.

The balance of the Pre-Fall 2014 collection was magnificent. Cable knits, bonded crepe and tweed like beading all taken into consideration and intertwined with much precision. Vaguely justified as being “about infiniteness”, and a “haunting beauty”, Raf Simons intricately planted landscapes of Dutch tulip fields and Belgian beaches alike within the collection.

The look book itself featured models;  Sasha Luss, Larissa Hofmann, Katlin Aas and Ashleigh Good.

Do take a gander.

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Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2014

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One can say that Monsieur Wang has now been at Balenciaga long enough to have settled, to have found his feet and to be deep in his best work yet.

There is now doubting that his latest Pre-Fall 2014 collection exudes the confidence of a long standing creative director, yet we can’t ignore its slightly over-thought and disjointed ways. This isn’t to say that there aren’t some outstanding looks though.

Alexander Wang described this collection as “techno couture”, which would explain the pixelated looking printed sweater and bursts of waterproof zips. It was quite futuristic in every sense, even down to the linear piping and crazy curved shoulder pads. As futuristic as it was, its tailored pant suits had a very Gattaca feel to them.

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It’s sporty and digital ways made even the shoulder pads look like they had some underlining aerodynamic benefits. Yes, dear Alexander is now designer turned inventor.

There were much added hardware and toggles which alluded to snowboarding references, which was then met with the strict tailoring and shapes of the more solemn, bonded wool pieces. Even the footwear resembled boots fit for snowy, -10 terrains with their laces and fur coverings.

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Once again to his credit Wang has attempted to harness and apply the old school voluminous silhouettes of Christòbal Balenciaga, yet at times it doesn’t feel very natural. The last couple of looks flaunted curved, circular backs, whilst cocoon like shapes featured in plenty of the collection.

And lets not forget that long sleeve silk column gown. Pure genius.

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The lookbook featured models Lexi BolingKasia JujeczkaZuzu and Anna Ewers.

with love.

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Chloè Pre-Fall 2014

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Coming from people who relish every and any opportunity to throw on a coat, Chloè‘s revival of the blanket coat is welcomed with open arms. Hello comfort.

For Pre-Fall 2014, Clare Waight Keller played with the ol’ blanket, morphing it into gorgeous capes, short jackets and thick scarf like wraps. The pieces were trimmed with thick piping and gave way to pockets of patch-worked fluffy fur.

This heavy wool was met with the typical frivolity of any Chloè show which manifested itself in chiffon frills and ruffled skirts. Hemlines took the form of rounded cascading waterfalls, paired with very thick-soled mule resembling footwear.

Special mention must also go to the above the knee, thigh skimming boots.

So much glorious, glorious outerwear. It’s all very London.

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Balenciaga Spring 2014

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As fashion week picks up and moves on, we still can’t get a certain Alexander Wang masterpiece out of our minds.

The pure euphoria of the Spring 2014 Balenciaga show was one of a real rare kind. There was so much to drool over and admire, it was the kind of show which we could not fault. And of course, a show of impeccable pieces that we know Monsieur Wang for all too well.

“The idea was to start strong and austere, and let that unravel,” spoke Wang, and indeed it unraveled just enough for us to be treated to glimpses of Wang’s cool-edge. A big thank-you must also be extended for the Balenciaga set design team for that rearview mirror, for the full 360 degree experience.a_4x-vertical-4

Historically speaking, Balenciaga has always been body defined, akin with sculpted torsos. Body defined with a hint of sport-influences, so Wang was destined to thrive at the house.  Recognisable by its infamous cocoon shapes, Wang gave this structured shape a softness with pale pinks, cream, white and soft blues.

Then he added pattern. And boy did it work. Swirling floral motifs were transferred from structured tops to tailored butterfly shorts. Which brings us to the alarming amount of matching separates in the collection.

So, there was manipulated leather, which was embroidered here and there and cut to absolute perfection. There was a dose of modesty and alluring sophistication in both the silk cape-back tops and caped jackets. Not to mention the amazing shoes and wrap-around brace like neck hardware.

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In “want[ing] to bring [an] ease into the DNA and codes of the house that I’m working with,” Wang succeeded beyond even this, and we feel that even Cristóbal Balenciaga would agree.

The Balenciaga woman has never looked so feminine, cool and strong.

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Jil Sander Spring 2014

a_4x-vertical-25Clean, sharp and pure; boy does Jil Sander know how to cut clothing.

Her architectural cuts and constraint was a major influence in the ’90’s, and its a pleasure to have her back at the helm of her label after her hiatus (don’t worry, we love you too Raf).a_4x-vertical-34

The “modern woman” (Jil Sander), who wears Sander’s A-line skirts, cropped jackets and culottes is also one intrigued with slightly masculine tailoring. There was a killer deep neckline which was slashed at the waist (as pictured above), which was quite a standout for us.

The collection was to be the “powerful beauty of random assemblage”, and it was. Wavering from Sander’s strenuously solo-idea focused collections of the past, she allowed herself to delve here and there into ideas, but everything was beautiful of course.

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with love.

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Prada Spring 2014

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“I’m fixated with the idea of women of strength. There is a necessity to be strong, visible, fighters, and this is an encouragement to be out there and to do something.”

“It’s absurd, against the rules; it’s a happy collection. You need to be fighting. It’s about a debate about women; it’s a political discourse: ‘I’m allowed to do whatever I want to do with clothes.’ If they see you, they listen.”

Miuccia Prada (to WWD after the show)

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with love.

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Calvin Klein Spring 2014

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Calvin Klein‘s women’s creative director Francisco Costa has had much success at the helm of the brand, with this Spring 2014 collection marking his very exciting tenth anniversary!

Much of the collection was what we have come to expect from Costa’s work for Calvin Klein- monochromatic with an edge of reduced sportswear.

Deconstruction and reconstruction were on the agenda, in a harmonious balance of quite and strong.

Garments were adhered with coloured fringing, and there were pieces completely made up of emerald, red, white and  green handwoven cotton tweed. We then witnessed flashes of pink as Costa allowed himself to experiment with new ideas, pushing the envelope even further.

Unfinished skirt-hems were matched with translucent organza pieces an knits which allowed the haphazardness of the finishing to be given a little lightness. Dropped-waist fringe covered lengthy dresses in both white and black finished the show consecutively, displaying the excellent construction and restraint Francisco Costa has become renowned for.

Francisco Costa you have done us proud once again. 

2e4131ff4c351a99123038aa1a360443with love.

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